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On that score, there is also a series of nightly specials, like a chopped steak on Tuesday to rival the one at Peter Luger and a zuppa di pesce on Friday.But even a clever cocktail list doesn’t quite succeed in making Parm as enticing by night as it is by day. At all hours, tables are set with paper place mat menus dominated by sandwiches. The whole mood of the place, in fact, isn’t especially attuned to the sense of theater New Yorkers like their restaurants to provide after dark.The old Torrisi managed to have it both ways.

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